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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.